Read the fine print

I have been chasing down a solution to my insurance dilemma this week and made a few discoveries.

Firstly, Sal from Racing Red indicated that contrary to what I thought, my existing alarm is not a 3 point alarm because if it was trying to start the car wouldn’t even allow it to crank if it indeed had a 3 point immobilization alarm. Damm! Mine certainly has ignition and cranks if the alarm is not disabled. So the only thing that must be disabled is the fuel pump.

Luckily, he was able to provide me with the name of someone who deals with my aftermarket alarm. A quick conversation with him revealed that he needs to come out to check out exactly how everything is configured. There is a chance that it has not been configured right and can be fixed easily, so I have booked him in to have a closer look this coming week.

I also believe I have done the insurance people an injustice by not fully comprehending their policy. They in fact did not say they wouldn’t insure the car. What they actually specified is that they just won’t insure it against theft until the alarm is verified as 3 point. Thus, even if I can’t get the alarm fixed prior to renewal I can at least have it insured again all other maladies except theft. It pays to read what the offering says and not get too hysterical about it eh?

That however hasn’t prevented me from shopping around a few other providers just to see what is on offer. Always good to get a comparison.

I know that, failing all other options, I can get standard comprehensive insurance from NRMA just like my normal car. Down side is that it will be $500 – $800 more expensive but at least I know I have that available if really needed.

So, I’m still looking to get the question of the configuration of my alarm sorted and once again thanks to Sal for pointing me in the right direction there. I also appreciate now that I overlooked that my current insurer will still insure me, just not for theft until the alarm is verified as 3 point. Finally, I’m still pursuing other insurance options just what to see if on offer.

Hopefully, next week I’ll have some positive news to report about the alarm, which will then put the insurance question to bed for another year.

Insurance woes

As I have said many times, it is not buying an exotic car that is the challenge it is keeping it that can really stress you out. A great example is keeping it insured.

Just before purchasing the F355 I did the rounds of preferred exotic car insurers but discovered, much to my horror, that one of the limitations was the car needed to live in its own secured garage. This was a problem for me since I didn’t have such accommodations.

Luckily, I was able to find an insurer who would provide coverage for my situation. Thus, I could purchase the car.Ah, serenity now.

Fast forward two years and now my insurance on the F355 is once again up for renewal. However, this time it turns out the the current insurer is getting out of the business so I need to apply for cover with a new firm.

I dutifully complete all the forms only to discover that I can’t be insured unless I can confirm the car has an alarm that auto activates and disables the car in three ways!

Now this is a problem, because, being a second hand car and having been through a number of different owners, I have no history on the after market alarm system that is installed in the car. I certainly know that it auto arms as I discovered a few days after purchase, however how can I ‘prove’ that it disables the car in 3 ways?

I understand the requirement from the insurance company and I understand it is totally their prerogative to insure me BUT given the fact that this is a used car how do I go about proving it conforms with their requirements? Surely, they have come across this situation before and can give me some options?

I am pretty sure it does meet the requirements but again, no proof, no insurance, which leaves me probably with the need to search for an insurance alternative. This again will no doubt raise the issue about housing the car in a fully locked garage, once again limiting my options and most likely significantly raising the cost of insuring the F355.

Luckily, I still have some time before the existing insurance expires but I’ll need to get onto it quick smart and start finding out what is available.

This is certainly one of the major learnings I have had about the car. Unless you have a lock up garage in which to store the car your insurance options are somewhat limited, which is somewhat of a pain for those of us who can’t afford a freestanding house (which on average in Sydney at the moment, is far more expensive than a Ferrari!).

So, one of the things you NEED to check before you go out and buy the car of your dreams, is to check how much it will cost to insure in the location where you plan for it live. You may find the results of this somewhat tougher than you think as I have!

Final coat

After the last repair episode I had applied the first coat of paint to the injury.

I now applied a second coat of paint, waited a week and then applied a coat of clear coat to the area. I found that the clear coat did cause some of the second coat to come off which was a concern.

I made sure that injury had a good coat (perhaps a little too generous with that upon reflection) of clear as well as applying it over some other minor scuffs in the area.

You can see the final before and after shots above. Although far from prefect I am very pleased with what I have been able to achieve having no knowledge at all of how to fix this issue at the start.

With that in mind, here are my learnings:

1. Beware where you reverse so this sort of thing doesn’t happen in the first place. A little bit of caution on my part initially would have avoided this whole thing.

2. Mask the area off using masking tape.

3. Sand back the affected area using 300 – 600 grit sandpaper. 1200 grit will work but you’ll spend a lot more time sanding if you do. You will also probably get better results if you use a machine but you’ll need to be very careful about not taking off too much but I think a machine sander will provider a much smoother overall finish that by hand.

4. Fill the crack. No matter how small it looks you should fill it. I think resin is a better bet however that will generally leave a bulge which needs more sanding back. A filler, like bog, will probably be easier to apply and leave a flatter finished surface resulting in less sanding later. If you do use resin DON’T use the nozzle from the applicator but use a skewer stick to apply the resin into the locations you want. A toothpick is too small for the job in my experience.

5. Clean and sand back before every coat. This ensure a good bonding surface for the next layer.

6. Allow the layer you apply to thoroughly dry. In my case I learnt to leave it at least 7 days!

7. Less is more. You can apply too much paint, too much clear coat and sand too much. If it looks like it is enough then walk away, you can add more later if need be.

8. Be patient. This process will take a while given the need to have everything dry properly.

So where to from here? I’ll touch up a few areas, especially the edges of the repair, and apply clear coat to a few additional spots I painted last week under the car for completeness. I think the final stage of the repair would be to give the area a good polish using a rotary polisher. That should remove some of the bumps I can see in the paint repair as well as blend it a bit better. This doesn’t have to be done immediately as I want to get a dual action rotary polisher but practice doing paint correction on another car before I take the polisher to the F355.

The other job I’ll now look at doing is repairing the other scratches and chips the car has (mainly underneath the front bumper). No need for sanding there. All I should have to do is clean, paint and then apply clear coat. Easy!

Now there are still some hairline cracks in the rear bumper but for the time being I am going to leave those as I don’t think they are worth trying to fix at this stage. Maybe down the track after the area has been polished I will re-evaluate. So all in all a good learning experience and a good (if somewhat imperfect) result.

First coat

In the last episode, I had discovered that after all the sanding back and painting I actually needed to fill the crack. I also discovered that the paint takes a lot longer to actually dry that I thought.

The end result was that I was now at the point of having patched the crack whether to paint over it before taking the car out for the weekend, or doing the sanding and painting of the epoxy after the drive, even though the car would be dirty.

I ultimately decided that there was no need to rush (which took a lot of discipline on my part) and that I would wait until after the weekend run. So on Sunday night, after the trip out in the morning, I broke out the 600 grit sand paper and commenced what I thought would be short process.

The reality was that I probably needed coarser sand paper to cut through the epoxy, because the 600 grit got clogged pretty quickly. Not having any coarser sand paper I continued on for well over an hour sanding, sanding, sanding and sanding some more.

To be honest, it got the better of me and I was now so sick of sanding that I just wanted it done. I tided it all up and then applied the first coat of paint over the patched crack.

The above result at the end of the painting process certainly looks much better but if you look closer you can see that the surface is not completely flat. The ‘scar’ where the epoxy is can be seen upon close inspection.

To get a totally smooth result I probably should have used a machine sander, however the risk with that is that if you sand away too much then that is generally more of a problem than not enough. Thus, I decided that given all the constraints it was the best I could do.

I left the paint to dry for another week and took the car out for a long drive with the Ferrari Club on Sunday.

WP_20140526_005

So if the above is what it started out as, this is what it looks like now.

If you look closely you can see the area that I have painted and the ‘epoxy scar’ that perhaps could be sanded back more but generally at this stage of the game i am pretty happy with the result as I no longer see white fibreglass poking through red paint work.

With the weekend drive over it was now time to put a second coat over the first. I had been advised that I should sand the first attempt with 1200 grit to ensure there are no imperfections that would show through the second coat.

I would need to clean the area before painting so I asked someone whether methylated sprits could be used. They advise that I should use polish first then use metho. In the end I decided to wash the area first with car detergent. I then rinsed and dried the area. I then applied some of the cutting polish that came with the paint repair kit I had purchased.

The cutting polish took some of the paint off onto the polishing rag. I panicked at first but then remembered that that this is what the polish is supposed to do and the paint I was cleaning had no clear coat on it yet so it was raw paint.

I got an even greater shock when I then tried to use metho, because it started to take the paint off in much greater volumes. This left part of the surface I had attempted to clean sticky, like the paint wasn’t dry. Cursing my luck I now had to decide whether to proceed with the sanding and second coat.

Impatience won out and I decided to proceed with the second coat. I therefore cleaned the area again with water to remove any metho. Once it was dry I then proceeded to lightly sand the whole area back with 1200 grit.

Doing so took the gloss off the surface and did expose some of the white areas previously sanded. This was probably more to do with applying the metho than the sanding.

With the area sanded back, I once again cleaned it with water, ensured it was dry and then broke out the red paint. The question here is, how much do you apply? Do you apply a nice thick glossy coat or the bare minimum? I went for the thick glossy coat figuring that it is easier to take away than add later.

After closely examining my work, I touched up a few areas that where inconsistent and then stepped away. As always, I could see some small areas that I REALLY wanted to paint more but I disciplined myself after previous impatient attempts to call it quits for the day.

This second coat will now have the rest of the week to dry and after a trip out on the weekend the next step is to apply the clear coat.

Dry paint, dry.

Filler required

Now that I deemed the proof of concept repair to be enough of a success I decided it was time to start on the main event.
I therefore worked to tape up the location of the crack and then sand it back.

I then used the paint from the paint repair kit and the result came up as you can see above. I was pretty impressed with how clean it looked. However, there was a problem. As you might be able to tell from the above picture the crack is still plainly evident (you should be able to click on the picture to enlarge for more detail).
What I really should have done immediately after sanding it back was to fill it, but I got impatient and rushed into painting it.
Another lesson learn then, so I went off to Bunnings Hardware to buy something to fill the crack.

In the end I settled on some Loctite 5 minute rapid repair epoxy resin (figuring it was a better option for fibreglass and the car than ‘bog’). I was going to go with the 60 second version but I thought I’d need to do some podding and poking of the adhesive so having 5 minutes instead of 60 seconds to do this was a good idea (which it turned out to be). Also, the 5 minute product has a higher strength rating. So that sealed the deal on which product to use.
I return to the car after about 7 hours and attempted to start sanding back again. Unfortunately, I discovered that the paint had not dried completely (probably because of the cold weather). If I touched it it left finger marks. Damm, didn’t figure on that now did I? What I should have done is leave well enough alone and let it dry further but no, impatience got the better of me and I started sanding again. Bad move. The sandpaper kept catching and the not so dry paint just clogged the paper. Again, I should have taken that as a hint but I continued (when will I learn?). It also probably didn’t help that I was using 1200 grit rather than 600.
I managed to sand back the left hand side of the crack (the larger gap) but gave up trying to the hairline crack to the right. I thought I’d give it at least another 24 hours to dry.
So I come back 24 hours later and commenced sanding again. The paint was still grippy but I persisted. It would have probably have been better to use the 600 grit rather then 1200 like I was since it would cut more but I was by now a little gun shy so I persisted with the 1200 grit until the crack had been sanded back along its length.
The whole area doesn’t look at good as when I sanded it before painting it so again, I should have filled it then rather than rushing to paint. Just need to chalk that up to another learning lesson and be more patient.
With the area now sanded as much as I could take using the 1200 grit (sanding is no good for my lack of patience), I activated the repair epoxy.
One repair item that I did discover when visiting someone during this period was a set of wood food skewers. They are much better than toothpicks. They are longer and have a pointed and blunt end. I swiped half a dozen of these to use in my repairs and I’m glad I did.
I put the nozzle on the epoxy and pushed the plunger. The idea was to use the end of the nozzle which is was fairly fine, directly onto the crack. Problem was, the nozzle was not fine enough and I would have ended up dripping the epoxy everywhere. Plan B. I therefore reverted pack to the cooking skewer which proved very successful. I scooped the epoxy from the nozzle onto the pointy end of the skewer and ‘painted’ it across the crack.
I touched up a few locations with some more epoxy and checked that I had covered everything. With the mixture on and around the nozzle hardening I decided it was time to walk away for the day (see I am learning ever so slowly as I REALLY did want to add more epoxy).

The end result is the picture you see above with the adhesive covering all parts of the crack. I waited another 5 or so minutes for it to set and I packed up.
The question now is how long do I wait? The adhesive is supposed to take 24 hours to set completely but the temperature is much cooler than average so that means I’ll have to wait longer. That I can do. So let’s say I wait 48 hours and the adhesive is set. Do I sand it back and repaint immediately given that I will be taking the car out for weekend?
Sure I’d like to get a first coat on it before I head out BUT given that it didn’t feel 100% dry after 48 hours, am I better off waiting until the car is parked after the weekend and then apply a first coat? That way I have a whole week to wait for it to dry? Or do I take something like a hairdryer to the paint?
Of course if I don’t apply the first coat and take the car out the untreated area will get dirty and need to be cleaned before the first coat.
Decisions, decisions. However, I can’t proceed forward until I see the state of the adhesive after say 48 hours. I’ll wait till then before deciding what course of action to take.

Proof of concept

To address the issue with the cracked bumper I did some research on the Internet and came across this site:

https://www.touchuppaints.com.au/

They basically sell a range of products designed to help repair basic bumps and scratches. Their site is a little hard to understand at first but basically their preference is for you buy their complete repair kit (BTKW37).

This seemed like a sensible enough idea, since although it was probably more stuff than I needed it would allow me to fix issues on some other cars. The cost was around AU$160 with shipping and insurance. The most important thing you have to do when ordering the kit is nominate your car colour. The site provides plenty of details on how to find that information as well as plenty of instructional videos. You then simply select your colour (my Rosso Corsa 300/12 was there) and order the kit based on that.

The kit arrived very quickly and contained all the items you see above so it is pretty comprehensive.

The main thing I needed for my proof of concept was the body paint but as you can see there is whole range of products here that can help you with scratches on plastic as well as paint, so therefore the kit looks like pretty good value for any repairs like this.

As I mentioned in the previous post, my starting point was going to be an attempt to repair the inside of the bumper near the muffler as shown above.

Part of the process would be involve sanding and this I wasn’t real sure about. So again, armed with some answers from the Internet I went out and bought some 1200 and 600 grit sandpaper. Basically, the higher the number the finer the grain and the less ‘cut’ it makes. My plan was to start with the 1200 grit and fall back to the 600 if needed.

Sanding the location proved quite challenging given the shape and the confines.

After sanding the location back and then cleaning it off I was left with the small mark you see above.

The paint from the repair kit comes in a nail polish type bottle with a small brush attached to the cap to make it easy to apply. The main issue again was really access to the location to actually get in there and apply the paint.

I made sure that I also covered the exhaust so not to accidentally ‘repair’ what didn’t need repairing.

I now left the paint to dry and when I looked again later you can see the result above. Obviously much better but I was disappointed that you can still see the crack. Clearly, more sanding and perhaps some filling is required. So, even though the crack felt smooth after sanding there was clearly still a ‘valley’ that perhaps rather than sanding should be filled and then sanded for the best results? Not exactly sure what product to use to fill this but that shouldn’t be hard to determine.

I tried retouching the crack directly using a toothpick to drip paint right into the crack but that didn’t prove very successful. I think that was because the pointed end of the toothpick wasn’t holding much paint. Upon later reflection, I thought that perhaps I should remove this point and simply have a circular end, which should hold more paint.

Part of the issue is also access to area to fully repair it so rather than get caught up in that I decided to step and judge the proof of concept a success. Firstly, I think the 1200 and 600 grit sandpaper will limit the amount of ‘damage’ I can do while still creating a smooth surface. The paint from the repair kit matches the car colour, which is a big plus. Finally, I now have some experience in the whole process so I feel ready to tackle the main scratch. I can always come back and redo this crack near the exhaust when I do the other part of the bumper.

The main crack will be much easier to access so I should be able to sand that back much better. I’ll need to tape off the area to limit any ‘boo-boos’. It will also require more sanding and perhaps also require some clear coat (again, comes with the paint repair kit) over the top?

I know that the repair isn’t going to be as smooth as the rest of the bumper and I am pondering the best way to remedy that. I’ll need to see what the end result is after my attempts before I decide but I think I might have to go over the affected area with some cutting polish to bring it all back to being level with the undamaged portion of the bumper.

Anyway, that is down the track. I’m happy that the proof of concept was a success, that I have all the items I need to complete the repair and that I have some experience now. Onto the main event now!

Colour confirmation

If you have been following along with this blog you’ll know that last week I managed to back the F355 into a road divider, mark and split the rear bumper (Damm!). You’ll find all the gruesome details here:

Look before reversing

So my starting point is the above right after the fact.

First step was to give the car a good wash and see if I could at least scrub off the black marks. As you can see from the above shot I was successful in doing that. So, this becomes the new starting point (and I feel a little bit better).

The next thing that I needed to confirm was the paint colour. You find the plate for this under the rear engine cover as shown above.

As suspected, the car is Rosso Corsa Fer 300/12. Knowing this will allow me to order a bumper repair kit with the right colour.

So, the plan of attack is now do some research on fibre glass sanding and order a bumper repair kit. I’ll test the colour of the kit on a few scratches I have elsewhere that are inconspicuous. After that I’ll have a go at repairing the fibreglass inside the bumper next to the tailpipe.

That way I’ll be able to see whether I have the right technique without it being too obvious if I don’t.

So, off to learn about sanding fibreglass.

Look before reserving

If you though this blog was getting boring well thanks to my stupidity I now have another ‘little’ project.

As you can probably see from the above picture I was reversing in haste and managed to collect a raised road divider with a sign sticking out of it. The result of that was a lot of black scuff marks on the bumper but also a crack as you can see just above the exhaust pipe.

The impact also broke off some pieces from the under tray lining but the crack in the bumper is the really annoying part as it is a vivid reminder of how stupid and impetuous I am.

No use crying over spilled milk, time to work out how to get it fixed.

I have spoken with Sal at Racing Red and he can get it fixed but as you would expect it is bit more than few hundred dollars to repair, which I totally get.

The crack appears to only be on the exterior, it doesn’t appear cracked all the way through, so in theory it shouldn’t be ‘too’ hard to fix right?

If I tape it off, stand back the crack, touch it up with some paint I would think that would be adequate in preventing me from constantly seeing the reminder.

Hmmmm…let me see what Gary at Prestige Auto Dent Removal says first while I do some more research into fixing this myself.

I would think that if I tried to fix it up and stuffed up I could simply take to Sal and get it fixed?

Anyway, another chapter opens in the reference manual of my life with the F355. Stay tuned as this new story unfolds.

Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow

The last post I wrote focused on kicking off of my adventure into detailing and a few things that I have learned to do, and more so what not to do. I recently attended a Saturday morning detailing course at Car Care Products in Sydney which was really good. For $40 they spend a whole morning running through aspects of detailing. If you are at all interested in doing detailing correctly then I’d recommend this course to you.
Most of what they covered in the course I did have some awareness of but it was good to actually get hands on with doing some pain correcting and polishing using a machine polisher. That’s given me confidence to go and invest in one soon.
However, what you firstly learn is that the best way to wash a car is not to touch it, because no matter how careful you are, touching a car with anything can scratch it. So the first option is to use something known as ‘snow foam’ to coat the car and them let it dissolve the grim just like in this video:

The idea is to coat the car in foam, then leave it on for 10 – 15 minutes and then rinse off. Thus, if you have good paint protection on the car already you’ll have a clean car without touching it.
Of course, it would rare that you’ll get off all the grim using this method but it certainly makes a great pre-wash. However, the downside is that you need to purchase a bit of equipment to do this.
Now, the first bit of equipment you’ll need is a pressure washer. It would seem to me after my limited research that something like the Karcher K 2.180 would do the job.

It is small, cheap (about $130) and doesn’t have too much power. You need to be careful using too much pressure on paintwork as it can damage it. I need to some more research on the best pressure washer for a car but the good thing is that there are plenty around and they aren’t too expensive.
Next you’ll need a foam lance.

You basically fit to the end of you pressure washer and partially fill the bottle with detergent. The lance allows you to adjust the foam spray and coat the car as shown in the video.
Now an Autobrite Snow Foam Lance from Car Car Products is about $120. You need to make sure you get the right one for your pressure washer.
The final thing you’ll need is the snow foam itself that you’ll coat the car with. Unfortunately, like most actually cleaning products there is huge variety to choose from, however a typical one is Mint Snow Foam for about $15.
Unfortunately, I don’t really have a location on which I could use a pressure washer on the F355 so I think I’ll have to give this option a miss for the time being. I might still look at getting one down the track to see whether it does make things easier and to get some experience but for now I’ll have to give the snow foam step a miss in my situation.
However, this dive into cleaning products raises a good question. How can I measure how well a product works? How do I know the more expensive ‘name’ brand cleaner is doing a better job than a cheaper alternative? If it is better, how can I tell how much better? It would be really nice to have some scientific measure that I could apply when testing these products to give some true indication of how well they actually do their job.
This question about measuring how well products clean a car is going to come up more and more as I progress through all the different detailing stages. As such, I’m trying to work out some way of achieving this and lending some sort of measure again which products can be compared. If you have any ideas on how I can measure this I’d love to hear.
So, there you have it. First stage in cleaning your is to give it a pre-wash using snow foam.

Detailing done right

If you are an enthusiast you probably like to keep your car clean. If you are like me then perhaps you also have a compulsion to have it ‘perfectly’ detailed. That I see more as a journey than a destination (how very Zen eh?) but it is certainly a path that leads to a lot of discovery.
After getting the F355 I decided that I really wanted to understand what the detailing best practices where. I knew I couldn’t go to the extremes but hopefully I could improve. Shockingly, what I have learned so far is that for all these years I have been doing even the basics of just washing my car all wrong!
What I’ll start to incorporate into this blog is the road to enlightenment that I am undertaking when it comes to correct car detailing. I am going to start this journey with an empty slate and take nothing for granted. Any results that I achieve I want them to be both understandable and reproducible.
So let’s start this process with what what I know NOT to do.
1. Washing your car with dishwashing liquid. I did learn this a while back but it is worth re-iterating to be thorough. Dish washing liquid is designed to strip grease and food matter from plates, it is therefore quick an aggressive cleaner, especially when it comes to oils and fats. This means that it will generally strip away any waxes or sealants you have on your paintwork. It will certainly clean the paintwork but it will leave it exposed to the elements without any protection which is not good. So don’t use dishwashing liquid.
2. Use a sponge. Say what? I hear you say but the problem with sponges of today is that they are rock hard. If you have ever found a natural sea sponge you’ll know the difference. You don’t want anything hard trying to remove dirt because it doesn’t, it simply grinds that dirt into the paintwork marking it. You want to use a lamb’s wool or microfibre mit instead.
3. Use a single bucket. You need to use two buckets. One bucket you fill with your cleaner the other you fill just with water. Your wash mit (not a sponge) goes into the cleaner bucket and you then use it on the car. Before you dip your wash mit back into the cleaner you dip it into the water bucket. This rinses off all the dirt that you just collected with the wash material. If you don’t do this the dirt goes back into the cleaner bucket to be potentially picked up by the mit and then ground into the paintwork. Thus, into the cleaner bucket should only go a mit that has been rinsed to remove any dirt.
4. Wash the car directly without rinsing. This will remove any loose dirt and provide lubricant for the surface. It will also give you a better idea of how protected the surface is. If the water beads and runs off the paintwork then generally there is good protection. If the water clings to the surface and fails to drain away then the paintwork needs protection.
5. Wash the wheels before washing the paintwork. Most wheels contain a significant amount of brake dust and other material. If you do your wheels before or while you are doing your paintwork (and you are using a single bucket) then that material ends up on the paintwork and ends up scratching it. If you want to do the wheels first, either use a third bucket or completely rinse out any buckets you use before moving onto the paintwork. To me it makes more sense to do the wheels after the paintwork to avoid getting anything from them into the paintwork.
6. Wash in direct sunlight. Washing a car takes a while to get around all panels and if you are washing in direct sunlight chances are these panel will dry out before you get to them. That may mean you are then rubbing a hard sponge with dirt all through it directly onto the paintwork without any lubrication. You need to ensure that all panels stay cool and wet when washing as this also avoids water marks.

Doing the above items, especially in combination, allows your paintwork to be cleaned but upon closer inspect you see that it is covered in ‘swirls’ like shown above. These become quite pronounced in day light. These are minute scratches in the paintwork that can typically only be removed using some form of pain ‘correction’.
When I inspected my daily drive I noticed that it was indeed covered in swirl marks from incorrect washing procedures over the years. It was now time to start rectifying the wrongs and I’ll start covering off what I now do and the results of my research as well as the questions I am still researching as I continue along this detailing journey.
Stay tuned for a deep dive into the world of car detailing.