Solving the ‘chugs’

I’ve been battling a ‘chugging’ issue at warm start up now for almost 12 months, without a great deal of success. The last episode was:

It’s still an issue

After all the engine checks, by two mechanics, i still get the issue. Not all the time, but often enough to be really annoying. Problem is, I can’t replicate it on demand. That makes it extremely tough to troubleshoot.

After the engine check failed to resolve the issue completely, the focus turned to perhaps the problems being related to the third party alarm I have. As I understand things, the 2.7 355’s didn’t come with a factory alarm, while the 5.2’s did.

So I got a clever auto electrician/alarm guy to have a look and he is very confident that it is not the alarm. However, he said that it sounds like the evap system to him!

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The evap system is designed to capture fuel vapour and store it in a charcoal canister to be burnt off later. As you can see from the above diagram, the system has 2 x solenoids, 2 x valves, hoses and the charcoal canister.

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Looking at my car I see:

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The vapour separator,

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and the bottom of the charcoal canister, which all look good visually. The charcoal canister is housed inside a fibreglass housing.

The suggestion is that if the ‘chugs’ re-appear I should stop the car, take the fuel cap off to let the pressure equalise, restart the car and see if the ‘chugs’ are still evident. If so, that kind of confirms that I have an evap issue.

Typically, the ‘chugs’ only happen after I have been for a long drive, fill the car with fuel and then try and restart it. I’ve had the ‘chugs’ return after paying for fuel and also when I put the car away. The only real commonality is the car needs to be warm for the ‘chugs’ to appear.

Armed with this new method of dealing with the ‘chugs’, of course, nothing happened on my drive and refuel today. However, at least I’m now armed with a simple action that may over come the issue. If that in fact does, then looks like I need to focus my attention on the evap system to find the source of the issue.

Until that happens and I can confirm that it is indeed the evap system causing my issue, I’ll continue to reach troubleshooting techniques. Interestingly, I can’t find a lot about this issue on the Internet. It does seem to be something rare, but then my mother always told me I was special!

Project COG is back in business

Many moons ago a cog in the AC timing actuator failed as I detailed here:

Gear of misfortune

I thought it would be easy enough to get a 3D printed version as a replacement. Oh, how wrong I was. I tried some trusted contacts who were in the 3D printing industry. They referred me onto a number of businesses who unable to print a cog for me.

After more than 2 years trying to get a commercial 3D printing business to print a replacement cog for me, I decided that the only way it was going to happen was if I did it myself. Thus, began another long quest to learn about 3D printing.

A few weeks back my 3D printer selection arrived. After assembling it and doing some test prints, I turned my attention to the real reason for my purchase, to print a simple cog!

Attempt 1

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As you can see from the above, this attempt didn’t go well. The issue was the fact that due to the small size of the cog the print lifts from the bed.

Attempt 2

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Things are looking better now after some adjustments to the printing process. I can at least see that it is starting to look like a cog, but again the print is detaching from the bed. More adjustments.

Attempt 3

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YEAH BABY! We have a winner. As you can see the print completed successfully. I needed to some minor clean up on the finished product but I tested it in the Timing Actuator and it seems to work fine.

Oh man, has this been a long (and expensive journey) all to get a replacement for this tiny cog! However, there are a few minor tweaks I need to make to the model so it needs less clean up after printing but I don’t expect that to be too hard. It’ll also be a good way to learn more about the 3D modelling process.

I can now finally say that I have the ability to produce a solution for the 63307100 Timing Actuator gear failing from about two years ago! Even though I do have a number of cogs made by others that work the one I just printed myself now holds pride of place.

During this process, a few readers of this blog contacted me about obtaining a replacement for themselves if I managed to produce them. Well I have and you are welcome to reply to this post, or contact me directly via email and I’ll send you what I have made. Note, that I am still tweaking as we speak and I have not yet actually put the cog into the car so I can’t guarantee that it works on the road, but I’m pretty confident it will. But, if you want to try it and let me know if it indeed does work, contact me a I’ll send you a print.

Hopefully, after a few adjustments I can offer these to people who experience the same issues.


It’s still an issue

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So after all the work that was done to try and sort the car, it unfortunately seems to still be there. I took the car on a run over the mountains and pulled over just before ascending for some breakfast. When I tried to start it after a break it took a lot of cranking. Hmmm, this isn’t good I thought! The car finally fired and I started up the mountain.

Unfortunately, about 20 minutes into the drive the car dropped into ‘limp mode’ without and warning or indicators on the dash. I took a side road and pulled over. I tried on/off, to no avail. I tried isolating the battery, to no avail. Thus, my only option was to limp the car home, which is never a fun experience.

As I went to put the car away it almost didn’t start. Crank, crank, crank……finally started but again in limp mode. It had almost no power.

Ok, so off to the shop again. Problem is, Sal from Racing Red was unavailable for a few weeks. Rather than wait and have the car sitting around I decided to try Scuderia Cavallino Servizio instead. Maybe a fresh set of eyes would help?

Sadly, even after being there and having the ignition coils and O2 sensors changed (and of course not displaying any issues), the car still doesn’t feel right to me after taking for a weekend drive. It certainly doesn’t go into limp mode (yet) but there is still an occasional hesitation on crank.

The biggest challenge is the problem is consistent. Typically, the issue manifest itself after the car has been drive for at least one hour. Sometimes, it start fine, with no hesitation. Sometimes, it starts but there is a bit of a ‘glug’ at the end of a long crank and then it fires. Sometime, it takes two cranks to fire. As yet, the car has always started and not failed into limp mode. However, I can still feel the ‘glug’ on occasional start which indicates to me the issue is still there.

So now what? Do I keep driving it in the hope that limp mode doesn’t return? Do I take it back for continued troubleshooting. Decisions, decisions. It is super frustrating that it is a intermittent issues. Makes troubleshooting really tough.

New Year, same problems

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I hate to say it but my ‘ignition but no crank issues’ haven’t gone away. The car certain starts cleaner after the recent flush, but something still isn’t quite right.

Typically, I have gone for a drive, stopped the car, say to re-fuel, return and I get lights but no crank. I turn the key off and on and car starts.

It worries me that one day I won’t be able to get the car to start all. The most likely candidates for the issue seem to be:

1. Solenoid

2. Ignition relay

3. Alarm

The car does have an after market alarm as factory ones were not available back when the car was made. Perhaps the engine cut out relay in the alarm is failing after all this time? This is hard to troubleshoot without disabling the whole alarm. So my thinking is to get the mechanicals replaced (solenoid and ignition relay) first. Then, if the problem continues, it maybe time to consider getting a new alarm?

The car goes back to Racing Red shortly for a once over again and I’ll report back once that has been completed and if anything was found or replace.

Again, annoying but I need to have it sorted to have piece of mind.


Flushed

The 355 is back after a visit to Sal at Racing Red to try and solve the ‘spluttering’ problem. He went through the car but the main thing he did was clean the injectors.

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Using a device that he has, he cleaned and tested all the injectors, which has not been done since I have owned the car.

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He also went in and change all the spark plugs. My records indicate that these  haven’t been changed in over 8 years, so doing both should make a difference.

While the car was in it had its annual service and rego check, so when I picked it up it was good to go for another 12 months.

On the drive home I did notice a marked difference in performance, which was pleasing. However, while parking the car I did get a ‘lights but no crank’ issue on one restart. I’m kind of wondering whether that has anythign to do maybe with the alarm not fully disengaging? I’ll have to monitor that more closely. However, no ‘spluttering’ was present which is great. Fingers crossed that at least that issue has been resolved and I can enjoy the car over the holidays.

Trouble continues

Unfortunately its appears that the initial attempt at rectifying the ‘spluttering’ problem was unsuccessful. This means an extended stay with Sal to try and get to the bottom of things.

I’ve had to wait a while for Sal to be able to fit me but that will happen next week. Given it is also time for the cars annual service and rego we might be able to squeeze all that in during this visit I hope.

To prepare I took the car out to a local petrol station to get fuelled up and it performed faultlessly. It seems that I only get the ‘spluttering’ once the engine is up to temperature after a long drive. Starting and stopped then seems to cause the issue to arise.

So, it is off for a good check up this week and hopefully a solution to the issue which has been keeping me off the streets of late.

Phase senor replaced

The hunt for the intermittent throttled performance continues. I went out for a drive and all was good. I pulled in to get fuel after the drive and upon re-start the ‘chuggy’ issue returned, with the engine going into limp mode. I stopped and started the car on the spot, but no luck, it stayed in limp mode. Not being far from home, I headed off in limp mode to at least get the car back.

A few hundred metres down the road the fault cleared, and with a bit of a kick I was back to full power. I continued home with no further issues. The good thing was was that any error codes where now captured for analysis.

A few days later, I took the car to Sal so he could read the codes. The engine management was reporting a ‘Stroke error’.

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This sensor is on the right hand side of the engine near the cam cover, so it is easy to get to and replace. Cost of a new one was around $400.

The details of the part are:

Bosch 232103006 – Phase Sensor – 3165143101056

Ferrari part number = 150866 – Phase Sensor

I drove the car home again and stopped for fuel. Upon first ignition turn I had no engine crank, just all the dash lights. Oh-no! Off and on allowed me to restart and it’s been all good since then.

Still not 100% sure all the gremlins have been found. Fingers crossed it doesn’t come back!


The reason remain undetermined

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After a few weeks delay, Sal from Racing Red was able to come and look at the F355 and guess what? No fault found! Oh man, how annoying.

Maybe, because I had the battery isolated for a long period and the engine fully cooled down, that the problem went away (at least for now).

Given the symptoms, of going into limp mode, one would expect it to be an ECU ‘Slow down’ issue as I have experienced before. But Sal tells me that would generally mean the ‘Slow down’ light would appear on the dash rather than the ‘Check Engine’ light (which is what happened in this case).

If we assume that the ‘Slow down’ ECUs and probes are ok then the issue may lie with the airflow sensor. 

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The problem with this is that they no longer make this part new. That would mean sourcing a suitable used version. Finding that could prove tough, but let’s cross that bridge when we come to it and know that is actually the problem.

With no fault found all I can do is leave the car turned on and take it for a long drive, stop to get fuel and see if the issue returns. If it does then at least I know I should be able to get it home, isolate the battery again for a period of time, get it working and over to Sal’s workshop so he can take a closer look.

Frustrating that the secret remains hidden as I would prefer not to have the issue arise again when I’m out on a run. Fingers crossed.

The ten year anniversary

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Here’s the summary of another year’s ownership of a F355. I have been remiss at not getting this out sooner as September was the actual anniversary date. You may want to catch up on previous episodes:

One Year Anniversary

Two Year Anniversary

Three Year Anniversary

Four Year Anniversary

Five Year Anniversary

Sixth year Anniversary

Seventh year Anniversary

Eighth year Anniversary

Ninth year Anniversary

The tenth year they say is tin or aluminium

It’s been another year of extended lockdowns and restrictions on movements so comparisons from previous years have gone out the window.

Costs

The normal running costs where about $8,500. This is smaller than average due to lockdowns and an extended time the car was off the road.

I did have a simple coolant repair to take care of.

Outside these, I also had to get the ‘stickies’ taken care of. As part of the process the interior was given a complete make over by Elliot Caras whom you can find at elliotcaras@gmail and @restored_by_elliot on Instagram. The results where AMAZING and worth every penny!

Travel

The car reached the 98,000 kms mark and is all set to break the 100,000 kms mark very soon. I only did a bit over 5,000kms in the car again due to lockdowns and tie off the road for repairs.

Low points

Unfortunately, the year did not end well with the car going into limp mode on a drive and not coming back out after a reset. Even though I have now had work done on the issue I seem to still have a related issue with the ignition that I am trying to get sorted.

I am still trying to get a replacement cog 3D printed to replace the one in the air conditioning timing actuator. Trying to find a business that is interested in actually delivering a product is hard. However, I am working on a solution that I hope will solve this in the not to distant future.

High points

Given the locks downs and issues with the car, there again haven’t been too many I can remember. It is always great to get in the car and go for a trouble free run, and there certainly was plenty of those over the year, but the low points have pushed these to back of my memory unfortunately.

Value

The value remains around the $300K I estimate. Inflation has also played a big part in this I feel.

Summary

Probably the best thing that has happened this year is that I have been able to relocate the car to a secure storage facility. This means that it is no longer in a shared car park. That did not reduce my insurance premium that much but it did reduce the excess from $10K to $1.5K! The car now lives in a dedicated, locked and alarmed facility that I have access to at any time. It also means I can fiddle with the car and do minor repairs such as my alarm light. It also allows me a place to completely detail my car out of the sun and inquisitive eyes.

I’ll be much happier though when I get this reliability issues with starting resolved. Problem is I think they might be a bit tough to troubleshoot. Time will tell.

Do I have any regrets after 10 years of ownership? Nope, not one. Every minute has been enjoyable, even the challenging ones and I can’t imagine what life would have been like if I hadn’t made the commitment and overcome my fears of buying the car all those years ago (it’d actually be pretty boring I’ll bet).

I look forward to another year’s ownership and hopefully more reliability. The issue have been more annoying than anything. Nothing really that was a show stopper, thank goodness. All things being equal, I should cross the 100K kms barrier in the car soon, which when you think about it isn’t bad. I have a feeling that it is probably the one of the highest kilometred Ferraris in the country me thinks.

Here’s to another 10 years of adventure.   


What a way to spoil a drive

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Unfortunately, it is time for the F355 to play up. This doesn’t happen very often BUT I am fully appreciative that it will happen as the car is now approaching 98,000 kilometres travelled. And today was the day.

I was out on a Club drive heading south along the coast. We had taken the freeway and stopped at the top of Bulli pass to grab a coffee. All good so far. After about 20 minutes I jumped back in the car, but when I started it I was greeted with ‘chugging’. The engine was spluttering and the ‘Check Engine 5-8’ light stayed on for longer than normal before extinguishing. I turned the car off and on but was greeted with the same result. Oh no!

Now this has happened before. Typically it has happened on a cold morning after I have filled up with fuel and returned to start my car. Generally, the car ‘chugs’ a bit and then is fine. It has happened two or three times over the life of the car and not recently.

Having seen these symptoms before, I continued along the freeway south hoping it would clear but it was obvious that the car had not fixed itself and was in fact now running in ‘limp mode’ (with only half the cylinders working). You can tell this because it simply has no guts to get up a hill. Along the flat or down a hill it is generally ok but on almost any incline it is a pig. I have experienced this before but not for many years.

With something clearly wrong with the car, I pull over again on the side of the freeway and did a battery isolation (i.e. disconnect and reconnect the battery via the switch in under the bonnet). The idea with doing this is to reset the engine management system and hopefully clear any errors.

Unfortunately, when I restarted the car I still had issues again. The return of ‘limp mode’. I knew it was time to abort the run and head for home. I turned right and headed across to the Hume Highway, M7 and M2 route home.

I pulled over again a few kilometres along, isolated the battery again, and waited a few minutes to see if that, perhaps, would clear things. Nope. Same problem. Damm! Off we go again.

I continued on my way, luckily at freeway speeds, avoiding traffic. I did debate whether to pull over again once the car got nice and warm to see if another reset would help, but decided against it. Let’s just get the car home asap I figured.

The last part, off the freeway, on suburban streets as a real challenge, especially going up any hill. To add salt to the wounds there was a huge bank up of traffic near the destination due to a car festival. Of all the days!

After crawling through the traffic I finally made it back. Even stopping and starting the car here still made no improvement, something is broken for sure. My guess is a sensor has decided that today was the day to go to God.

The positives are that I was able to get the car back home and hopefully I didn’t stress it too much running in limp mode. Next step is to see what needs to be done to get it fixed! I hope that can be done where it is and not having to take the car somewhere as it is a real pig to drive. But, let’s wait and see what the options are.

I’ll keep you posted on what happens next.